Lost in Vinales

Vinales (pronounced Viniales) is in the Central-West of Cuba on a plateau surrounded by picturesque hills and valleys where tourists flock to get that authentic rural experience. The result is more like a faux-alpine apres-ski atmosphere which comes alive in the evening when the temperature dives from a beer drinking 24 celsius in the day to a cocktail guzzling 19 in the evening. 

The No 1 Vinales hotel
The Best Exotic Vinales Hotel

As the light dims the bars fill with western and latino travelers, some still splattered with mud from the days mountain-biking and some dressed to the hilt, but they all join in the merriment when the $2 cervesas, $3 mojitoes and Salsa takes hold.

DSCN5974 (2)Walking down the main street on Friday morning we saw heaps of people piling-up at the state-run stores to get their hands on a highly sort-after prize, in this case it was eggs. Friday must be egg day, trucks with crates of eggs just arrived in town and for the locals it was a not-to-miss opportunity. Among them were the hundreds of Casa Particular proprietors who need eggs to provide breakfast to the army of travelers who make their way to this little village west of Havana.

Egg day
Egg day

The mornings have a different feel, as the tourists sleep off the night before the locals are out egg queuing or other similar activities.

It’s week 4 and we’ve battled our way through our injuries, Malene with a case of “Castro’s revenge” Mariane with a hobbly leg and me feeling pretty well for a change so we kept our activities to a manageable level. We hit the main street and saw the shop, took a horse and buggy taxi, which was actually a horse and trough-cart, up the hill to a look-out and then visited a tobacco/ cigar farm.

Vinales from the look out
Vinales from the look out

I spoke to some guys at the look out inquiring about the music blasting from their sound system, it turned out they were a band and it was their sounds on the system. Just as well, so both Mariane and I bought the CD and have been listening to it since.


View from the look out
View from the look out

The cigar farm turned out to be a nice surprise thanks to the genuine farmer Alfredo who took us through the cigar making story with so much enthusiasm. Alfredo reminded me of someone but just can’t quite work out whom.

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Later that evening over some Daiquiris (Malene had coke) we met some very funny and drunk English ladies who thought we were French.

Transport Vinales style (above) and real Style

Don’t expect wide-spread internet in Cuba other than in some towns and then it’s only in the town-squares. One must purchase wifi access for $2 an hour and sit in the square by the church, to ensure a good connection, to download emails which is about all you can manage, on rainy days it’s trickier. In Vinales I shared the square with some skinny chickens, baby chicks and a melee of travelers.

Cant say we did much, between Malene’s tummy upset and Mariane’s bruised heel our sense of adventure was low so we spent a fair bit of time at our Casa, mainly on the roof.

View from our Casa roof-top

It rained a lot but during the sunny spells we ventured up the main street to forage for restaurants or somewhere with live Salsa to lift the spirit, or just a nice Pina Colada.

How a cocktail should be served, just add your own rum

Other than that we had a quiet time, I stood in a giant dog poo, Malene got blog writers block, had a Pina Colada where they give you the bottle to add as much rum as you like, danced some salsa, had an argument with a taxi driver, made up, were overcharged but got our money back and we lost our straw hats.

Road leaving Vinales
Road back from Vinales

Adios Vinales


At the airport we considered our new hat options



  1. Atsuko Takahashi says:

    Hi, Malene and Nick san!!
    Your photos are so beautiful. I like the funny hats!
    I wish I were there because it is so opposite weather in Japan…..

    Looking forward to your more photos from all other countries!!
    Take care. ;))
    Hug and kisses xxx

    • Hi Atsuko
      So nice to hear from you! Happy New Year and hope that all is well. Glad you are still enjoying our blog even if some of the photos are silly! We met one Japanese couple in Cuba on Christmas Eve and they looked like they had a good time.
      Take care
      Malene and Nick xx

  2. Joan says:

    I’m still enjoying your blogs, keep up the great commentary!
    I spoke on skype to Anna in London and she updated me on your Mum’s present abode. Last time I was with your Mum she said she felt isolated up on the f!ourth floor, and would rather be where she could see more people around. I think she will be stimulated by her new surroundings! She enjoys company.
    A belated Happy New Year to you both!
    Love, Joan xx

    • Nick and Malene says:

      Hi Guys we too enjoy your messages, we regret not getting the hats at the airport because we haven’t found any new ones here in Nicaragua.
      Hope not affected by the storm hitting the US, you may need to get down here for some sun and R&R.
      All the best Nick and Malene

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